Saturday, October 19, 2002

Plitvice National Park


by Stephanie Anderson

Plitvice National Park, in inland Croatia not far from the Bosnian border, is a wilderness of sixteen crystal blue, terraced lakes. Between these lakes cascade countless waterfalls, constantly changing with time and the landscape. Rough wooden walkways have been laid as scenic paths along the lakesides. Stairs abruptly leave the pathways and lead to high viewpoints from which one can survey the grander scene. The water is so clear that even from 100 feet above, one can still see the forms of swimming fish. Electric ferries quietly carry visitors across the lakes from one trail to another.

The argument that this is one of the most beautiful places in the world need not even be made. The fact is granted. It has even been named a "World Heritage Site" by the people who name such things. What this title means is a bit mysterious, but the magnificence of the area must have something to do with it.

Obviously, everyone who has heard of such a tranquil wonderland wants to go there, and if they harbor a doubt, even one inadequate photograph would sell them completely. So how has this park not been inundated with swarms of people on their around-the-world Disney tours? Because getting there is no light task. The nearest train station, 1.5 hours from the park by bus, is in Zagreb. Zagreb is seven hours by train from Vienna, the easternmost city of the West. Most people's travel plans sadly do not include even one day in Zagreb (which is a beautiful city), and thus do not allow for this bus connection.

The majority of travelers in Croatia are on the coast, and many of them come by boat. These logistics leave really only one option besides a long bus ride: Rental car. Driving in Croatia is not the European Autobahn racing of legend, rather, the roads are two lane and twist through the mountains. Passing is hardly ever an option, and chances of getting stuck behind a cattle truck are high. But it can be done, and parking around the park is adequate and the road passing through the region is lined with rooms for rent and restaurants nightly serving creatures roasted on an open flame spit.

Though the scars of war are still obvious in her landscape, Croatia is a beautiful country, more than worth a visit. Plitvice makes the struggles and atrocities of recent Yugoslavian history seem to belong to another world.

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