As soon as you get close to the water, men start hustling you to pick their boat. Our two selection criteria became: basic command of English, and sobriety. After agreeing to a price for a boatride with a man that met these rigorous standards, he shuffled us down to the water and put us in a boat with his 13-year-old son and an even younger deckhand and then waved goodbye. Classic bait and switch.
He probably should have been in school, but the 13-year-old, sporting a navy sweater vest as a captain's uniform, could really handle his 45+ foot canoe with a lawnmower engine.
We cruised the lake all day, exploring temples, monasteries, markets, and shops. The fisherman paddle their boats with a leg wrapped around an oar to free up their hands for the net.