Friday, September 10, 2010

The end of a Season

The waves were small. Surfable, but small. And, when that is the case, you sit in your car for a while debating getting out into the 45 degree water. But, then you do. Because its the end of a season.
And, these are the first surfable waves you've seen when you've had a board and a wetsuit and not been in the fuel truck madly trying to make it back to work.
The sun is setting behind the volcanoes and a sea otter is creeping you out by bouncing up and down just beyond the break. You get to sit on your board with the cool water seeping into your booties and enjoy the not-so-coldness of Kachemak Bay.
First wavelettes of the coming surfing season and so excited, we both jumped on the first ride. Not that surprising that we crashed into eachother, but pretty funny that when I fell I landed on her board and it kept on cruisin, me, belly up like a turtle, in front of her feet. Rolled off, laughed at ourselves, and paddled back out. Frickin' crowded break.
Surfing makes me happy. Warm water more so, but only because it is really hard to get a wetsuit on and off. They just don't work like your Dungarees. But, even for a couple rides, the minor struggle is worth it. And bobbing on a board with the mountains in front of me and Beryl buzzing overhead eases a busy season artfully to a close.

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