Day 14: Rangeley, ME. 220.4 miles from Katahdin, 1965.5 miles from Mt. Springer

Does hiking up and down the rock falls of a 4000+ foot peak at least once a day sound like fun to you? Ankle twisting, knee-popping, back-breaking adventures, for free? Come to Maine! 

The AT claims to have the elevation change equivalent of climbing Mt. Everest 16 times. Maine wants to get its share in. We have made it to what AT hikers call "Southern Maine" (it looks a lot like western Maine on a map). We are summiting steep peaks everyday, only to descend and do it again. Forrest has sprained both his ankles (he says he's "fine"). I have bent both my trekking poles, and mourned their wounds much more than Forrest did his own flesh.

We are pretty happy with our gear choices, except I have changed shoes. I went from a lightweight running shoe to something with a sole to combat the rocks and roots. Unfortunately, when you upgrade to a hiker sole, there's usually a waterproof feature. If you want to have wet feet at the end of the day-- wear waterproof shoes. Ask anyone who's ever worked in rubber boots.

We crossed the Kennebec River, which is the only assisted crossing (by canoe) on the AT. (All other rivers you just take off your shoes and wade.) 

After crossing the river, we joined the path that Benedict Arnold used to invade Quebec during the Revolutionary War back in 1775. One third of his troops deserted along the way, but we are still at full strength, probably thanks to more lightweight backpacking materials developed in the last 240 years. Oh, and maps.

We're 10% done. Onward to the infamous Mahoosuc Notch and the New Hampshire state line.

Day 7: Monson, ME. 114.5 miles from Mt. Katahdin, 2071.4 miles from Mt. Springer

We made it through the gates: survived Mt. Katahdin & the "100 mile wilderness" and are headed south. We've hiked more than 120 miles, but you don't "count" hiking up Mt. Katahdin to the start. There are rules about counting, and a whole lingo that goes with this Appalachian Trail.

Mt. Katahdin

Katahdin/Mt. Baxter has the same identity crisis as Alaska's Denali/Mt. McKinley, but President Obama hasn't shown up here to announce to Mainers what they should be calling it. 

The way up & down this famous trailhead is more climb than hike, I realized as I had my elbows and knees wedged between boulders scrambling for every few feet.

Katahdin has been in the national news lately because the administration of Baxter State Park wants to move the trail's end from within their boundaries. The recently ticketed the recent AT record setter for being on the summit with a group larger than 12. When we were on the summit, there were more than 100 people there, drinking in the views on a gorgeous Saturday, many of them were smelly AT hikers, but many were day hikers. It seems to the casual observer that Baxter Park is just having a little turf war with the AT.

The 100 Mile Wilderness

The trail is marked with "white blazes" on trees and rocks. In the wilderness, in places, it seems that someone has just run through the woods with a paint can, randomly painting blazes, with no worry for the path between. We navigated rocks, roots, mud and more rocks. Maine has rocks. All sizes. 

We were accompanied by critters from toads, snakes and spiders, to moose and porcupine.

We've heard some great tales from northbound hikers, my favorite being from the German who claimed he was "in a bear attack." Upon further questioning, this meant that he talked to a guy who had his pack taken by a bear. We have seen a couple families on the trail. A mom & dad with 5 kids (youngest 9) summited Katahdin the day before us in 50 mph winds. They had hiked all the way from Georgia, homeschooling along the way. We crossed paths with a single mom hiking with her 11-year-old and twin 5-year-olds. They were a few days from Katahdin, also originating in Georgia.

And it begins

We are poised in Millinocket, Maine, about to head up Mt. Kathadin, the trail's famed "hardest climb" and Maine's highest mountain. It seems a little cheeky to me-- to "highpoint" a state when you've only known her a couple days. From Katahdin, we walk straight down into the "100 mile wilderness": the AT's longest stretch without re-supply. Normally routed, from South to North, most AT hikers hit these challenges after months of hiking, when they are at their toughest and fastest. We, on the other hand, can only brag relative cleanliness.

Everyone is shocked to hear that we are starting now-- in the winter?!?-- but we have 30 pounds of food packed and if we want lighter packs, we better start walking and eating.

We have heard that the peloton of Northbound hikers from the summer season is about two weeks south of us, poised to strike for their finish.

We stopped in Bangor to sing"King of the Road," pick up last minute supplies, and watch "Walk in the Woods": Robert Redford's new movie about Bill Bryson's attempt at the AT. Leave it to Nick Nolte & Redford to take a story about walking and make it rated R. But we got a lot of laughs headed in to an adventure that might need some laughter to carry us down the trail.

Bound for Appalachia

Forrest has a dream. It is to hike the Appalachian Trail (or "AT," as it's apparently known). The trail is about 2180 miles and it goes from Maine to Georgia straight up and straight down each of the Appalachian Mountains (more or less). His mantra is "walk home by Christmas." My mantra is "Do you know about airplanes?"
Of the many things that I am worried about, one is that my backpack will be too heavy. So, I have been reading this book, "Ultralight Backpackin' Tips" (the "G" in 'backpacking was too heavy).  It tells you how to dehydrate your toothpaste, wipe your butt with a rock, and says that chapstick is a "luxury" item. Reading this book did not assuage my worries.
An ultralight pack is 10 pounds or less. My pack weighs in at 18.2 pounds "base weight" (without food or fuel). Forrest's is lighter. I have weighed, measured and contemplated each item. For example: I know that my Homer Women's Nordic ski cap is lighter than my other ski caps. I'm not sure if this will make the ski team proud when I collapse under my pack wearing their colors.  Forrest told me to stop weighing things, but now I know that to walk around in the woods for an undetermined amount of time, I need 18+ pounds of things. An airplane would have no problem carrying that load. We'll see about me.